Ag Tronic Generator Manual Average ratng: 6,5/10 1361 reviews
Sorry for the long postWhat I've got:1972 B&S 170432 with a 2 piece flo-jet carb )Ag-tronic Pep alternator model # 3R1 (3600 rpm / 3KW)I can handle getting the motor going again, (I have the carb kit on order already - should be in Monday) but I do not have any experience with the generator part of this machine.What kind of checking can I do on the generator (or should it be called an alternator?) before I get the motor going.I've taken my digital multimeter set to VAC and I seem to get some output from the 120VAC receptacles when pulling the recoil start. It looks like the brushes and rotor are ok.no chunks of rotor missing.no signs of burnt or broken wires. Generator spins freely with no scraping sounds.I have read that rotors can demagnetize over time, and you might have to 'excite the field' to get them to put out a charge.using a drill spun backwards, 3 light bulbs wired in series.seems a few ways to do it. Is that safe for this type of setup should I need to do so? (If whatever I can check tests ok.)Thanks in advance for any help!
The 'new' carb was a bust, the intake tubes do not line up. However I was able to get the old one rebuilt.I got it running and it charges. Today I went out to fire it up. I left half a tank in it.It ran like a champ for about 45 seconds then sputtered, blew white smoke out everywhere.backfired. I cut it off and noticed oil leaking from the bottom of the choke assembly.How and the heck is crankcase oil backfeeding through the carb?! Is the diaphram shot?Is it possible I overfilled the oil? Jeesh!Well at least the mosquitoes didn't bother me after the smoke screen, lol.
Sounds as if the fuel has leaked and overfilled the crankcase. This is somewhat unusual on a horizontal crank Briggs as the carb's air horn must fill to where the crankcase breather tube connects below the air cleaner. This is also how the crankcase oil can get into the carb. You saw this a lot on Briggs vertical crankshaft engines that had float valve sealing problems. Check you engine oil to see if it is contaminated with fuel. This is most likely where most of your 1/2 tank fuel went.You ask if a diaphragm is shot. Do you have a vacuum pulse fuel pump on this unit?
Could you post some pictures of this generator?Kent. I checked the oil level, it is full and is not contaminated with gasoline. I even let a little oil out and ran it.There was no change, it ran great for about 45 seconds.
And then smoke screen and oil from the choke area.I was calling the breather a diaphragm. It's actually a breather, sorry for the confusion.I removed the breather, sprayed it out with carb cleaner and reinstalled.
Please forgive my lack of proper terminology - but is the plastic disk inside the breather supposed to self-seal by force of the bent metal behind it that acts as a spring? If so, it isn't doing a good job at all.but wouldn't that just cause oil to blow into the breather tube?What troubles me most about all of this is that the oil is NOT getting into the carb via the breather tube.See attached pics.Thank you for your help. Your breather hose on the valve spring chamber cover/crankcase breather is most likely cracked where you have the arrow pointing that oil comes out. The ONLY way oil can enter the engine through the tube you have pointed out in the second picture, which is the intake manifold, is via the rubber tube from the crankcase breather to the air horn.
Then through the carb., intake manifold and into the engine. You might have a bad crankcase breather. I have also seen a loose oil fill cap or dipstick cause this problem. Your engine could also have excessive blow-by from bad rings/worn cylinder wall.Kent. That book is gold.
Ag Tronic Generator Manual
I went ahead and picked up a few other manuals, for more recently made engines while I was at it. I spent the better part of yesterday researching and learning.One thing I did not find in the manual - though I may have overlooked it - is the length of the intake and exhaust springs at rest, as in not under compression. Is there a defined spec?John - I'm in agreement with your statement about the valves/ valve guides.
I'll be removing the head in a few minutes to see what I find. Nfs pro street patch 1.1 us. I'll post some photos. I have NEVER seen the free length of the valve spring given on a Briggs engine. I have also never been greatly concerned about this spec. These engines are not Fire Breathing Super Charged Chrysler Hemi on Nitro running a cam with the width of the cam lobe nose about the diameter of the cam bearings. The only time you need to what spring length is if the exhaust valve has a retainer that is also a valve rotator. If you have a rotator, the exhaust valve spring will be the short one.
To set valve clearance, you must remove the valves. If the clearance it to tight, you grind the end of the valve stem off. If to loose, you must grind the face of the valve and/or set to tighten them. Clearance is measure with the engine cold, 24 hour since last run. Intake clearance is.005.007 inch, Exhaust clearance is.009 to.011 inch.
I always set them at 7 and 11 especially if I have just ground the valve and seat face.Kent- Post added at 03:43 PM - Previous post was at 03:23 PM -I should have looked closer at your pictures before I posted. You have a ridge in the cylinder and you also have some scratches. It has ate some dust in the past. I would bet it has been run without the foam air cleaner element being oiled or without a air filter.
I would also bet, if you will pull the piston that the rings are shot. Since this is a aluminum bore engine, hopefully you can find a set of chrome rings for it. Chrome rings do not require honing the cylinder walls before installation.
Coleman Powermate Generator Manual
Ag Tronic Generator Manual Pdf
If you used standard rings, you must hone the cylinder. When you hone a aluminum bore Briggs, You MUST clean the cylinder walls with a High Pressure Power Washer to remove the honing grit that WILL be embedded in the relative soft cylinder walls causing SHORT ring life if NOT power washed.I know Briggs has dis-continued the Chrome Ring set for the 13XXXX( 5HP engine). I had to buy them from an after market supplier(STENS). I do not know if they are still available for the 17XXXX(7HP) from Briggs. Briggs P/N is 299743. STENS P/N is 500-629.Kent.
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